Ray-Ban Wayfarer

Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses have been manufactured by Ray-Ban since 1956, when their design was a revolutionary break from the metal eyewear of the past. Wayfarers enjoyed early popularity in the 1950s and 1960s. Though the sunglasses had faded from the limelight by the 1970s, a lucrative 1982 product placement deal brought Wayfarers to their height of popularity. Since the mid-2000s, the sunglasses have been enjoying a revival.

Wayfarers are sometimes cited as the best-selling design of sunglasses in history[1][2] (although Ray-Ban Aviators have also been credited with this achievement[3]) and have been called a classic of modern design[4] and one of the most enduring fashion icons of the 20th century.[5]

Contents

Design and early popularity

Wayfarers were designed in 1952 by American optical designer Raymond Stegeman,[6][7][8] who procured dozens of patents for Bausch and Lomb, Ray-Ban's parent company.[9] The design was a radically new shape, "a mid-century classic to rival Eames chairs and Cadillac tail fins."[7] According to design critic Stephen Bayley, the "distinctive trapezoidal frame spoke a non-verbal language that hinted at unstable dangerousness, but one nicely tempered by the sturdy arms which, according to the advertising, gave the frames a 'masculine look.'"[7] Wayfarers, which took advantage of new plastic molding technology,[4][7] marked the transition between a period of eyewear with thin metal frames and an era of plastic eyewear.

1970s slump and 1980s comeback

After Wayfarers' heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, sales declined.[7] Though Wayfarers' cultural popularity was boosted in 1980, particularly due to classic film The Blues Brothers, only 18,000 pairs were sold in 1981,[10] and Wayfarers were on the verge of discontinuation.[11]

The sunglasses' fate was reversed, however, when in 1982 Ray-Ban signed a $50,000-a-year deal with Unique Product Placement of Burbank, California, to place Ray-Bans in movies and television shows.[10] Between 1982 and 1987, Ray-Ban sunglasses appeared in over 60 movies and television shows per year;[10] Ray-Ban's product placement efforts have continued through 2007.[12] Tom Cruise's wearing of Wayfarers in the 1983 movie Risky Business marked the beginning of a Wayfarers phenomenon; 360,000 pairs were sold that year.[10] By 1986, after appearances in Miami Vice, Moonlighting, and The Breakfast Club, sales had reached 1.5 million.[10] Wayfarers rose to popularity among musicians, including Roy Orbison, Michael Jackson, Billy Joel, Johnny Marr,[13] Blondie's Debbie Harry,[13] Madonna, Elvis Costello,[13] and members of U2,[13] and among other celebrities such as Jack Nicholson,[14] and even Anna Wintour.[15] Bret Easton Ellis' fiction often name-dropped references to Wayfarers,[16] and Don Henley's 1984 song "The Boys Of Summer" contained the lyric "You got that hair slicked back and those Wayfarers on, baby". Canadian pop artist Corey Hart music video Sunglasses At Night shows the artists wearing Wayfarers in darkness. Ray-Ban's Wayfarer offerings expanded from two models in 1981 to more than 40 models by 1989,[17] and Wayfarers were the decade's sunglasses of choice.[18]

1990s decline and 2001 redesign

As the 1990s began, the frames again became unpopular.[19] The 1950s revival that fueled the glasses' popularity in the 1980s had lost steam, and Wayfarers were outcompeted by wraparound frames.[19] In 2001, the Wayfarer underwent a significant redesign (RB2132), with the frames made smaller and less angular, and changed from acetate to a lighter injected plastic.[19] The changes were intended to update the frames' style during a period of unpopularity and to make them easier to wear (the frames' previous tilt made them impossible to perch on top of one's head, for instance).[19]

Late 2000s comeback

Wayfarers were brought back into fashion in the late 2000s when celebrities including Chloë Sevigny and Mary-Kate Olsen began wearing vintage frames.[20][21] The 2008 film Twilight features vampire Edward Cullen sporting a pair of black Wayfarers at school, reflecting contemporary American pop culture. Ray-Ban designers soon noticed that vintage Wayfarers were commanding high prices on eBay,[19] and the 2007 re-introduction of the original Wayfarer (RB2140) design aimed to respond to the demand.[13][19][22] (As of 2007, Wayfarers were available in Original Wayfarer, New Wayfarer, and Wayfarer Folding styles.[23]) Ray-Ban's marketing strategy was threefold: a return to the sunglasses' original, rebellious design, an "edgy" advertising campaign and "high-profile PR events", and the use of new media like MySpace to connect with consumers.[24] Sales in 2007 were 231% greater than in 2006 at Selfridge's London;[8] as of October 2007, the Wayfarer was the Luxottica Group's third-best-selling style.[25] As of July 2008, sales had increased 40% over 2007[8] and is currently available in a wide variety of colors and patterns.

Similar designs

Ray-Ban made a number of models that looked similar to the Wayfarer style, such as the Myth and the Meteor.[27]

The sunglasses worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's are sometimes mistaken for Wayfarers, but are a model called Manhattan by Oliver Goldsmith.[28]

Other people who prominently wore sunglasses resembling Wayfarers are John F. Kennedy, Bob Dylan, Bruce Springsteen, Ryan Adams, Jack Nicholson, Andy Warhol and (during the later seasons of Miami Vice) Don Johnson.[29][30][31] These sunglasses may not have been Wayfarers, but were in the style and design set forth by Wayfarers.

During the 2000s Wayfarer revival, many sunglasses designs inspired by the original Wayfarers were produced by designers unaffiliated with Ray-Ban. Grey Ant's Grant Krajecki designed a larger, cartoonish version of the glasses "so extreme that [they] are best worn by those with a good sense of humor".[32] Other Wayfarer-inspired sunglasses included Oliver Peoples' Hollis, REM Eyewear's Converse, and various designs in Juicy Couture, Hugo Boss, Kate Spade, and Marc Jacobs's 2008 lines.[25] Between July and September 2008, retailers began selling frameless Wayfarers.[33]

References

  1. ^ everybody guess it Hirschlag, Jennifer (citing Ray-Ban's brand director, Marcello Favagrossa). "Ray-Ban Tunes in to a New Generation." Women's Wear Daily (November 13, 2006).
  2. ^ Hambling, David. Weapons Grade: How Modern Warfare Gave Birth to Our High-Tech World. Carroll & Graf Publishers (2006): p69. ISBN 0-7867-1769-6.
  3. ^ Sporkin, Elizabeth. "Ray-Bans have it made in the shades." USA Today. May 6, 1987.
  4. ^ a b Delap, Leanne. "I wear my sunglasses at night". The Globe and Mail (July 12, 2008).
  5. ^ Derrick, Gabrielle. "The world's favorite shades turn 40". The Age (October 3, 1993).
  6. ^ Stegeman, Raymond F.E. Front for Spectacle Frames. US Patent #169,995.
  7. ^ a b c d e Bayley, Stephen. "Notes & Theories: Through a Pair of Glasses Darkly." The Independent on Sunday (June 18, 2006).
  8. ^ a b c Walker, Esther. "Geeky but chic". Independent Extra (July 3, 2008).
  9. ^ Google patent search for Raymond Stegeman. 70 of 72 patents issued to Stegeman were assigned to Bausch and Lomb.
  10. ^ a b c d e Leinster, Colin. "A Tale of Mice and Lens." Fortune (September 28, 1987).
  11. ^ August, Melissa et al. "Through A Glass Darkly." Time (July 12, 1999).
  12. ^ Passariello, Christina. "Return of the Wayfarers: Luxottica revamps once-cool Ray-Bans with an eye to women." The Wall Street Journal Europe (October 27, 2006).
  13. ^ a b c d e Hirschlag, Jennifer. "Ray-Ban Tunes in to a New Generation." Women's Wear Daily (November 13, 2006).
  14. ^ Spade, Kate. Style. Simon and Schuster (2004), p66. ISBN 0-7432-5067-2.
  15. ^ Oppenheimer, Jerry. Front Row: Anna Wintour, the Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor-in-Chief. St. Martin's Press (2005): p215. ISBN 0-312-32310-7.
  16. ^ Ellis, Bret Easton. Less Than Zero. Vintage Comtemporaries (1998) (originally published 1984): p121, 122, 203. ISBN 0-679-78149-8.
    Ellis, Bret Easton. The Rules of Attraction. Simon & Schuster (1987): p25, 40, 122. ISBN 0-671-62234-X.
    Ellis, Bret Easton. American Psycho. Vintage (1991): p70, 71, 81, 224, 242, 257, 394. ISBN 0-679-73577-1.
  17. ^ Norris, Scott. "Boosting the Hottest Shades Under the Sun." Rochester Business Journal (Oct. 9, 1989), section 1, p10.
  18. ^ MJ. "Style Spy." GQ.com (October 2007).
  19. ^ a b c d e f Rushton, Susie. "Dark Star." The Independent. (April 16, 2007.)
  20. ^ Brown, Laura. "Mary-Kate Olsen's Singular Style". Harper's Bazaar (October 1, 2007).
  21. ^ Toulin, Alana. "The 'IT' list for 2008". The Ottawa Citizen (December 29, 2007).
  22. ^ "Ray-Ban Wayfarer Relaunch." Wallpaper (January 25, 2007).
  23. ^ Ray-Ban. Official website (2007). Accessed October 7, 2007.
  24. ^ Brunelli, Richard. "Ray-Ban Wayfarers: Made in the Shade". Adweek (October 1, 2007).
  25. ^ a b Brown, Rachel. "A Blast from the Past at Vision Expo West". Women's Wear Daily (October 8, 2007).
  26. ^ Oliver Goldsmith to remake Audrey Hepburn's sunglasses to mark 50th anniversary of Breakfast at Tiffany's
  27. ^ Vintage Ray-Ban ad
  28. ^ Oliver Goldsmith to remake Audrey Hepburn's sunglasses to mark 50th anniversary of Breakfast at Tiffany's
  29. ^ Manolo for the Big Girl Blog
  30. ^ Ka_Kaos Blog
  31. ^ Apex Exposure Blog
  32. ^ Magsaysay, Melissa. "New riffs on the Wayfarer". Los Angeles Times (November 4, 2007).
  33. ^ Demasi, Laura. "Sunny outlook". The Sun Herald (Sydney, Australia) (July 6, 2008).

External links